| We've had quite a few
people ask us what type of training we are having Chuck do, so
here it is. For the most part, it is not so much rock specific.
It's more of an eclectic regimen that is for overall fitness. The
reason is that we are trying to represent the averages here. Most
people don't have the time to climb 4 hours a day 5-6 days a
weeks, and neither do we. Our best guess is that the majority of
climbers can climb about 2-3 days a week, maybe 4 if they're
really dedicated and lucky. This gives them a total of roughly
5.25 hours per week on the rock and about 3 hours in the gyms
lifting weights/ doing aerobic work.
Monday:
Weight lifting day:
Chest, shoulders, and tri's.
Chest: Bench 4 sets of 8-10 with approximately 165 pounds
Incline Bench 3 sets of 8-10 with approximately 145 pounds
Flyes 2 sets of 10-12 with 30 pound dumbbells.
Shoulders: Military Press 3 sets of 8-10 - 135 pounds
Dumbbell side raises 2 sets of 8-10 - 20 pound dumbbells
Rear delt raises 2 sets of 8-10 with 20 pound dumbbells
Tris: Bench dips 3 sets of 10-12 with bodyweight plus 45
pounds
Tuesday:
Climbing Day
Warm-up on about 2-3 5.9s
1-2 5.10s
1 5.11 (attempt) and a 5.11-
Lead routes:
5.10-
5.10+
5.10
5.9
After that, boulder for about 20-30 minutes. That's it. Nothing
magical and certainly nothing that the ordinary man can't squeeze
in to an hour and a half. Wednesday
Back and Bi's
Pull-downs or chin-ups
(alternating each week from back to front)
4x8-10 with 140 pounds
Bent-over rows
3x8-10 with 130 pounds
Barbell curls (bi's)
3x8-10 with 65-75 pounds
Hammer curls
1-2x8-12 with 25 pound dumbbells Thursday
Climbing Day
In theory, this is more of a training
day than fun day, so doing laps is supposed to be the norm to
build up endurance.
Warm-up on a couple of 5.9s and downclimb them.
Lead a 5.10 overhang route that's about 35 feet to finish warm-up.
Climb one or two 5.11-'s
Climb five 5.10s - depending on how I feel, they'll be either 10+
or just 10s.
If I'm spent, I'll go do about 10-15 laps on a 5.9.
Finally if I have any juice left, I'll boulder for about 20
minutes.
Overall workout time: 1.5 hours. Friday
Lifting Day
Legs
Leg Press Pyramid Reps: 10, 8, 6, 6 with 370, 460, 550, 640
Hack Squats 3x8-10 with 225
Leg extensions supersetted with leg-curls 3x10-12
Saturday
Climbing Day
Fun day. Climb outside if the weather is
good or go to the gym. If I go to the gym, I'll just do a bunch of
lead routes in the 5.10-5.10+ range until I can do no more,
usually about 5-6 leads. |
